The weather today was looking like it would be low visibility, but largely dry. I drove up to Cluanie and was on the hill by 9am. Today's venture was largely about working out what my rate of progress would be through the day, so I was taking on a walk which was one of the shorter of the week, but which I could join up with another walk if I progressed well - if I did both walks I would have reason to be pleased with myself. However, the combined walks would result in my landing back on the road about 4 miles from my car. I had my bike so that I could drop it off where I would arrive and then could ride back to the car, but looking at the weather and my own sense of energy I figured that the basic route would be more than enough - I decided to keep the bike in the back of the car.
The guidebooks all commented on the fabulous views, but I couldn't see any of them. In fact the walk was largely uneventful for the first few hours. Enjoyable, but uneventful. Navigation was aided by the OS Maps I had on my iPhone (new from work), though the route was fairly obvious. It was certainly nice to be back in Scotland, where the paths were completely uncluttered with other walkers, in fact in the first few hours I'd seen no-one.
I took in Carn Ghluasaid and continued to Sgurr nan Conbhairean and then I hid my rucsac as I would be returning by the same path and went on to Sail Chaorainn. It was now that I had my choice - head west and onto the other route, or continue whence I'd come and back to the car. After short deliberation I decided to add on the extra route - I hate these decisions when on walking holidays, because the cost of do/don't is often the balance between achieving a lot and relaxing a lot - and I want to do both things!
I knew that joining the other route was going to be a bit tricky, some descent was inevitable, but by hugging the side of the hill, this could be minimised, equally though, the terrain was potentially quite boggy and uneven. Overall it wasn't much fun and was playing havoc with my right foot as it struggled to hold a steady position and took most of the strain of walking along the side of a steep hill (resulting in quite a bit of rubbing in the boot). The good news though was that the weather was clearing a bit, particularly as I descended a bit.
Eventually a reached the col which marked me arriving on the next route. My time was still OK - i was reasonably confident of getting back to the road in time to get something to eat - but should I walk west to the Cluanie Inn and then get a lift from there to the car, or straight east back to the car for 4 miles, with the hopeful possibility of hitching a ride.....?
I'd still not seen another human, but as I scanned the adjoining mountains, I could see figures in the distance, just silhouetted against the sky. However, they were following a strange route and I realised that they were probably deer. It took several minutes of close observation to confirm that they were definitely deer, largely based on their somewhat erratic movements and grouping in comparison more goal focussed walkers.
As I ascended the next hill I again went into the clouds, but the glimpses of brightness into the valleys added a wonderful light to the surroundings and gave me confidence that warmth and light awaited my descent. The first hill was fairly (A Chraileag) easy, but for the second (Mullach Fraoch-choire), the path became far more exposed and there were amply scrambling opportunities, particularly one along a set of pinnacles - it looked very tempting (because it looked possible, but very scary), but I chickened out on the basis of having my rucsac on my back (I could have left it earlier as I was on the final leg which I'd need to return on, but I'd felt a bit nervous when I left it last time), and also because I was getting pretty tired. The weather and visibility were also getting worse and to be honest I was pleased when I arrived at the summit and could start to make my return.
The initial descent was pathless and slow, but after a while I made enough descent to break through the clouds and the rest of the path to the car was now long, but reasonably flat and easy going. The views now opened up completely. I saw another herd of deer to my left and then shortly after another to my right - both herds starting at me as much as I at them.
My legs were doing OK, so I used my sticks to get some pace on, and managed to get a technique going where I was really propelled along by my arms. I t was tiring, but effective and I ate up the rest of the path and made it back to the road by about 5pm.
I decided to just get on with the walk back to the car rather than potentially adding another 2 miles onto it by going to the Cluanie Inn. I knew that a lot of people had success with hitch hiking on this road, but I wasn't sure about it and more than anything felt quite silly and presumptuous doing it! The first car passed without me raising my thumb, but as the second one approached I optimistically put my thumb out. To my surprise and joy, it stopped for me and I threw my stuff in the back and enjoyed the 10 minute ride back to my car with a very pleasant, local young chap who working in a fish farm. He obviously enjoyed his work and it was a pleasure to meet him. I just hope I didn't stink his car out with my sweat and bog smell.
I then drove to the Cluanie Inn for something to eat. I was surprised to see a deet in the car park and I decided to see just how close I could get to it before it ran off. I was probably at about 15ft and moving very cautiously as it was about as tall as me and I din't know which way it would bolt when it ran. I took another step and it stared at me and then suddenly lurched as if to charge at me! I quickly bolted in the other direction!
I had venison stew in the pub by way of revenge.
I took a drive to Glenelg after to where the Skye Ferry still carries it's 6 cars over to Skye. I was surprised at just how close Skye was at this point - no more than about 400m.
Had a few whiskies in the pub, a chat with some people in the hostel, and then to bed - feeling very chuffed with myself and now expecting a bonanza week with some more epic walks which I would continue to excel at.....
Munro - Sgurr nan Conbhairean,Carn Ghluasaid, Sail Chaorainn, A Chraileag, Mullach Fraoch-choire
GPX - https://www.dropbox.com/s/fyfznzqwq7jmnij/15-09-15%20-%20Sgurr%20nan%20Conbhairean%2CCarn%20Ghluasaid%2C%20Sail%20Chaorainn%2C%20A%20Chraileag%2C%20Mullach%20Fraoch-choire%20-%20%28me%29.gpx?dl=0
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