Even while I was packing the car my knee was twinging, so I set off with very mixed feelings as I parked up the car in Morvich A big part of me wanted to drive off straight away, but the day was shaping up to be another beauty so it seemed like a real shame not to make use of it.
I set off on the bike ride to the start of the walk, still trying to convince myself. The ride itself was less even than first expected, it probably took about 40 minutes to reach the University hut. I locked up the bike while being swarmed by midges, even the midge repellent didn't put them off!
I set off on the walk, got about 15 paces and my knee started playing up - honestly! I turned straight round, unlocked the bike and rode back.....
Luckily it was a lovely ride, and in no way a waste of time. I was gutted to be setting off so early, but I knew that it was the only option.
I stopped off at the Welly Shop to peruse the whisky and bought another bottle and then drove home.
The week had been enjoyable, but nowhere near as productive as early promises indicated it would be. I feel like I added more to my 'to do' list that I actually ticked off. I didn't even take a look round El Donan castle!
Saturday, 19 September 2015
Friday, 18 September 2015
18/09/15 - Sligachan Trail - (me) [bike]
My leg was still bad so, but I was hopeful of being able to do a half decent ride and potentially walk up a small hill at Camasunary in order to get an excellent view into the Cuillin range. The weather was due to be excellent and though the morning was misty it was still bright and it was clear that there was a cloud inversion taking place. The drive to Skye was truly stunning as the sun burnt through the cloud and then the cloud hung to the Lochs and hillside.
I parked up near the Slagachan hotel and set off on my bike. I was expecting the first few hundred metres to be rough going, uneven and boggy, I wasn't disappointed. However, I soon realised that I'd taken the wrong path, so I retraced my steps. The new path still didn't feel capable of taking a Land Rover though, I triple checked but was comfortable that this was the only possible path,so I proceeded. There were a lot of water lanes (what are they called, I dunno?), which I needed to hop over and rarely did I have the confidence/ability to do this without stopping. The path was also very bouldery and so the going was slow. The weather and views were stunning, but I still felt unsure as to whether the route was going to be doable. I was unsure how far I'd travelled, but at one point I very nearly decided to turn back. Luckily I persevered and things got slightly easier and I managed to confirm that I was about a third into the route (obviously I needed to turn round and repeat once I got to the other end....).
I passed the occasional walker, but I was largely alone. The half way point came and went and I then started a gentle and slight descent. The route was still boggy and bouldery, but I became more capable of handling it. The weather and views remained stunning and I saw a salmon jumping out of a small lochan,which was quite spectacular.
I eventually arrived at Camasunary and looked up at the hill. Yet again I was faced with a do I/ don't I decision where there was no obvious answer. I decided to go with 'don't' on the basis that I wasn't wearing the right footwear, my leg was still dodgy and it could end up making the return journey long and painful as opposed to enjoyable.
I was definitely more competent as I started my return - I seemed to be able to flow over obstacles rather than being permanently halted by them. Before long, I met a fellow mountain bike who was riding in the opposite direction. It turned out he was a guide and so we had a brief chat and he took some photos of me to put on his facebook site.
As I approached the half way point I was starting to tire and was pleased to arrive back at the car having had an enjoyable and challenging ride - certainly more challenging than I'd expected. Land Rover my arse.....
I changed in the car park and then amused myself by washing in the river and looking up to realise that I was spoiling the view for a whole bunch of Chinese tourists who were still merrily taking pictures of the view.
This time I had my wallet with me so I quickly sped off to Portree to get some whisky and the books I'd seen, before returning to the Sligachan hotel (or the pub attached to it), for fish and chips.
Back at the hostel I started to ponder my options for the rest of the week. I had intended on one further day of walking in Glen Shiel before a night camping in Glencoe and a final walk up Buachaille Etive Mor. However, even putting my leg to one side I became dubious of my commitment to camping for a night and then walking on the final day prior to a long drive home. So I settled on trying a last walk tomorrow (the Brothers Ridge) and then driving home after - probably arriving home in the early hours of the morning,,,,
I parked up near the Slagachan hotel and set off on my bike. I was expecting the first few hundred metres to be rough going, uneven and boggy, I wasn't disappointed. However, I soon realised that I'd taken the wrong path, so I retraced my steps. The new path still didn't feel capable of taking a Land Rover though, I triple checked but was comfortable that this was the only possible path,so I proceeded. There were a lot of water lanes (what are they called, I dunno?), which I needed to hop over and rarely did I have the confidence/ability to do this without stopping. The path was also very bouldery and so the going was slow. The weather and views were stunning, but I still felt unsure as to whether the route was going to be doable. I was unsure how far I'd travelled, but at one point I very nearly decided to turn back. Luckily I persevered and things got slightly easier and I managed to confirm that I was about a third into the route (obviously I needed to turn round and repeat once I got to the other end....).
I passed the occasional walker, but I was largely alone. The half way point came and went and I then started a gentle and slight descent. The route was still boggy and bouldery, but I became more capable of handling it. The weather and views remained stunning and I saw a salmon jumping out of a small lochan,which was quite spectacular.
I eventually arrived at Camasunary and looked up at the hill. Yet again I was faced with a do I/ don't I decision where there was no obvious answer. I decided to go with 'don't' on the basis that I wasn't wearing the right footwear, my leg was still dodgy and it could end up making the return journey long and painful as opposed to enjoyable.
I was definitely more competent as I started my return - I seemed to be able to flow over obstacles rather than being permanently halted by them. Before long, I met a fellow mountain bike who was riding in the opposite direction. It turned out he was a guide and so we had a brief chat and he took some photos of me to put on his facebook site.
As I approached the half way point I was starting to tire and was pleased to arrive back at the car having had an enjoyable and challenging ride - certainly more challenging than I'd expected. Land Rover my arse.....
I changed in the car park and then amused myself by washing in the river and looking up to realise that I was spoiling the view for a whole bunch of Chinese tourists who were still merrily taking pictures of the view.
This time I had my wallet with me so I quickly sped off to Portree to get some whisky and the books I'd seen, before returning to the Sligachan hotel (or the pub attached to it), for fish and chips.
Back at the hostel I started to ponder my options for the rest of the week. I had intended on one further day of walking in Glen Shiel before a night camping in Glencoe and a final walk up Buachaille Etive Mor. However, even putting my leg to one side I became dubious of my commitment to camping for a night and then walking on the final day prior to a long drive home. So I settled on trying a last walk tomorrow (the Brothers Ridge) and then driving home after - probably arriving home in the early hours of the morning,,,,
Thursday, 17 September 2015
17/09/15 - Skye - (me)
I woke after another poor nights sleep, feeling pretty exhausted and my leg was feeling pretty bust. Luckily this was due to be the worst weather of the week and so I decided to spend the day taking it relatively easy on Skye, but would hopefully take a bike round round the Quiraing.
I set off for Skye. The weather was dank, damp and grey - a bit like my mood. I decided to stop in Portree to go to the Whisky Emporium, see if I could find a good bookshop and have a coffee and a cake somewhere. However, I realised that I'd left my wallet at the hostel.... Luckily I managed to scrape together a few quid from under my car - enough to pay for petrol and get myself a sandwich from the co-op. I did find a decent book shop though and took a note of a couple of interesting looking books.
I then set off on the way to Quiraing stopping at a couple of sites along the way - along with a number of coaches full of American/Chinese tourists.
When I got to the Quiraing I spent about 30 minutes umming and arring about whether to do the ride. Eventually I ended up taking a nap instead and then continued on in the car through Uig and back round down to the Sligachan Hotel where I stopped to look at all the whiskies (over 300), have a cup of tea and take a good look in the Sligachan museum (which awakened quite an interest in the origins of British Moutaineering)
I then headed back to the mainland where the weather brightened - along with my mood and I settled on parking on the Killilan Estate and having a very genteel and pleasant ride along Glen Elchaig. The Aberdeen cows provided stubborn resistance to my domination of the road and a buzzard provided the illusion of being a Golden Eagle, for a while anyway.
Then back to the hostel for some pasta and a whisky with a couple of hostel companions (Mike a young guy who had hitched from Germany and Rob a senior, well spoken chap from Edinburgh).
I realised my leg probably wasn't going to be any good the following day either so I decided I'd stick to another bike ride and following the suggestion from Mike I decided to do the pathway alongside the Sligachan river. I'd heard it was quite a technical route, but he said that it was essentially a land rover track, and said it should be pretty easy.
I set off for Skye. The weather was dank, damp and grey - a bit like my mood. I decided to stop in Portree to go to the Whisky Emporium, see if I could find a good bookshop and have a coffee and a cake somewhere. However, I realised that I'd left my wallet at the hostel.... Luckily I managed to scrape together a few quid from under my car - enough to pay for petrol and get myself a sandwich from the co-op. I did find a decent book shop though and took a note of a couple of interesting looking books.
I then set off on the way to Quiraing stopping at a couple of sites along the way - along with a number of coaches full of American/Chinese tourists.
When I got to the Quiraing I spent about 30 minutes umming and arring about whether to do the ride. Eventually I ended up taking a nap instead and then continued on in the car through Uig and back round down to the Sligachan Hotel where I stopped to look at all the whiskies (over 300), have a cup of tea and take a good look in the Sligachan museum (which awakened quite an interest in the origins of British Moutaineering)
I then headed back to the mainland where the weather brightened - along with my mood and I settled on parking on the Killilan Estate and having a very genteel and pleasant ride along Glen Elchaig. The Aberdeen cows provided stubborn resistance to my domination of the road and a buzzard provided the illusion of being a Golden Eagle, for a while anyway.
Then back to the hostel for some pasta and a whisky with a couple of hostel companions (Mike a young guy who had hitched from Germany and Rob a senior, well spoken chap from Edinburgh).
I realised my leg probably wasn't going to be any good the following day either so I decided I'd stick to another bike ride and following the suggestion from Mike I decided to do the pathway alongside the Sligachan river. I'd heard it was quite a technical route, but he said that it was essentially a land rover track, and said it should be pretty easy.
Wednesday, 16 September 2015
16/09/15 - The Saddle, Forcan Ridge and Sgurr na Sgine - (me)
Another bad nights sleep, but this time met with a gorgeous looking morning. I was feeling pretty tired so despite the beckoning weather, I struggled to get out of the lodgings.
I parked on the side of the road. Another couple were setting off as I was getting ready and so I figured I could use them to determine the exact starting point, this was particularly fortunate as they demonstrated a wrong choice at first - which saved me from making the same mistake!
The sun was beating down now,which was gorgeous, but I started to realise that I'd chosen the wrong clothes and was soon battling with trying to keep cool. The views down Glen Shiel were stunning. My muscles ached in a pleasant way (proving that I'd pushed myself yesterday), but I soon picked up pace and overtook the couple who'd set off before me.
I looked forward to seeing the ridge - I wasn't sure how technical it would be, but at least I knew that there would be lots of choices in terms of levels of technicality. When it appeared before me, it looked suitably inviting and intimidating at the same time.
I started the ascent and quickly move from the path to take the direct ridge itself. A man of about 20 years my senior was about 100 yards in front of me, I wondered what route he would be taking. There were some pretty technical bits, right from the start. The thing which always surprises me is the level of exposure that can be felt just by moving 5 or 6 feet away from the path. I got to the top of the first section and realised that I'd hardly even begun, I laughed it off and continued on the remaining section - again sticking solely to the ridge itself. The sun was still beating down, but the air was cooler and it was in all ways perfect weather for this type of activity. The views remained stunning, but despite the distance that could be viewed (Skye, Mull, Jura, Nevis), I felt too exposed to really relax and enjoy.
I got to the top of the next section expecting things to even out, but again found that the majority of the ridge walk awaited me. My nerves were starting to fray and I started to avoid taking some of the most exposed and technical sections in preference for the path. Again, I completed the next section to realise that several sections remained.... I wanted to rest in the sun for a while, but couldn't relax. I was enjoying myself, but only a very particular and somewhat indecipherable way.
I took on a tricky descent to a small col where an escape path descended to the left. I continued on the ridge until I came to a sudden vertical descent of about 50ft. The expletives that burst form my mouth caused my fellow walker to turn round from quite a distance in front of me. I nearly shouted him to ask how he'd descended. I really couldn't see how it would be possible to descend this without a rope. Why hadn't the guide books even mentioned it? Surely I'd done something wrong? Then I remembered the path at the col and realised that this (hopefully) would route around this section.
I returned to the path and tentatively started to descend - tentatively because even this route was very steep and the path was eroding badly. I was relieved when it became clear that I would rejoin the ridge further along. My nerves were now so frayed that I decided to stick to the path and avoid any optional scrambling. Fortunately there were no more false summits to the ridge and I soon came to the actual summit of The Saddle. Much relieved.
I knew that the remainder of the route would be vastly simple in comparison and so I was able to reflect on my level of enjoyment of the scrambling section. How dangerous was it? Did I actually enjoy it? One thing was for sure, I was pleased I'd done it and would certainly do it again - on another day, and next time with suitable friends.
I descended, came to the col and the reascended to Sgurr na Sgine I passed the couple (who'd set off slightly before me) on their descent. They'd bypassed the Forcan Ridge as the woman wasn't sure she could handle it, by advice was don't do it if your too nervous....
The route was boulder strewn, but while slow, interesting. I was tempted to return to the and take then gentler, but longer route back, but I decided to follow the guidebook. It was clear that I wasn't going to have such a heroic conclusion today as my time was going to be approaching the top end of the range of time advise by the guidebooks - the Forcan Ridge had really slowed me down.
On the plateau I used the sticks again to propel me along, but soon tired. And was the a muscle spasm on the front of my lower right leg?
I was dreading the descent as it looked like it was going to be steep and relentless. As I got to the start looked down, I realised that my concern was well founded. I was quite close to the road in terms of distance, but I was 800m up. I started the descent and within about 10 steps I realised that it was going to be painful - I had shooting pains from my knee to my ankle (I now know that this is called shin splints).
I made the descent slowly and painfully. Counting steps and setting myself short distance targets all the way. The GPS helped to give me confidence that I was making progress and that I'd make it eventually. I tried several different walking styles - quasimodo seemed to be the most effective.
I eventually made it back to the car and set off back to the hostel feeling decidedly less victorious then yesterday.
I had one of the best steaks I'd ever had at the pub, followed by a cheeseboard - i was desperately hoping that protein would ease my muscles.
While in the pub I googled the "bad step" on the route and found numerous accounts of people doing it, including a woman in her 60's.....
Another early night.
Munro - The Saddle, Sgurr na Sgine
I parked on the side of the road. Another couple were setting off as I was getting ready and so I figured I could use them to determine the exact starting point, this was particularly fortunate as they demonstrated a wrong choice at first - which saved me from making the same mistake!
The sun was beating down now,which was gorgeous, but I started to realise that I'd chosen the wrong clothes and was soon battling with trying to keep cool. The views down Glen Shiel were stunning. My muscles ached in a pleasant way (proving that I'd pushed myself yesterday), but I soon picked up pace and overtook the couple who'd set off before me.
I looked forward to seeing the ridge - I wasn't sure how technical it would be, but at least I knew that there would be lots of choices in terms of levels of technicality. When it appeared before me, it looked suitably inviting and intimidating at the same time.
I started the ascent and quickly move from the path to take the direct ridge itself. A man of about 20 years my senior was about 100 yards in front of me, I wondered what route he would be taking. There were some pretty technical bits, right from the start. The thing which always surprises me is the level of exposure that can be felt just by moving 5 or 6 feet away from the path. I got to the top of the first section and realised that I'd hardly even begun, I laughed it off and continued on the remaining section - again sticking solely to the ridge itself. The sun was still beating down, but the air was cooler and it was in all ways perfect weather for this type of activity. The views remained stunning, but despite the distance that could be viewed (Skye, Mull, Jura, Nevis), I felt too exposed to really relax and enjoy.
I got to the top of the next section expecting things to even out, but again found that the majority of the ridge walk awaited me. My nerves were starting to fray and I started to avoid taking some of the most exposed and technical sections in preference for the path. Again, I completed the next section to realise that several sections remained.... I wanted to rest in the sun for a while, but couldn't relax. I was enjoying myself, but only a very particular and somewhat indecipherable way.
I took on a tricky descent to a small col where an escape path descended to the left. I continued on the ridge until I came to a sudden vertical descent of about 50ft. The expletives that burst form my mouth caused my fellow walker to turn round from quite a distance in front of me. I nearly shouted him to ask how he'd descended. I really couldn't see how it would be possible to descend this without a rope. Why hadn't the guide books even mentioned it? Surely I'd done something wrong? Then I remembered the path at the col and realised that this (hopefully) would route around this section.
I returned to the path and tentatively started to descend - tentatively because even this route was very steep and the path was eroding badly. I was relieved when it became clear that I would rejoin the ridge further along. My nerves were now so frayed that I decided to stick to the path and avoid any optional scrambling. Fortunately there were no more false summits to the ridge and I soon came to the actual summit of The Saddle. Much relieved.
I knew that the remainder of the route would be vastly simple in comparison and so I was able to reflect on my level of enjoyment of the scrambling section. How dangerous was it? Did I actually enjoy it? One thing was for sure, I was pleased I'd done it and would certainly do it again - on another day, and next time with suitable friends.
I descended, came to the col and the reascended to Sgurr na Sgine I passed the couple (who'd set off slightly before me) on their descent. They'd bypassed the Forcan Ridge as the woman wasn't sure she could handle it, by advice was don't do it if your too nervous....
The route was boulder strewn, but while slow, interesting. I was tempted to return to the and take then gentler, but longer route back, but I decided to follow the guidebook. It was clear that I wasn't going to have such a heroic conclusion today as my time was going to be approaching the top end of the range of time advise by the guidebooks - the Forcan Ridge had really slowed me down.
On the plateau I used the sticks again to propel me along, but soon tired. And was the a muscle spasm on the front of my lower right leg?
I was dreading the descent as it looked like it was going to be steep and relentless. As I got to the start looked down, I realised that my concern was well founded. I was quite close to the road in terms of distance, but I was 800m up. I started the descent and within about 10 steps I realised that it was going to be painful - I had shooting pains from my knee to my ankle (I now know that this is called shin splints).
I made the descent slowly and painfully. Counting steps and setting myself short distance targets all the way. The GPS helped to give me confidence that I was making progress and that I'd make it eventually. I tried several different walking styles - quasimodo seemed to be the most effective.
I eventually made it back to the car and set off back to the hostel feeling decidedly less victorious then yesterday.
I had one of the best steaks I'd ever had at the pub, followed by a cheeseboard - i was desperately hoping that protein would ease my muscles.
While in the pub I googled the "bad step" on the route and found numerous accounts of people doing it, including a woman in her 60's.....
Another early night.
Munro - The Saddle, Sgurr na Sgine
Tuesday, 15 September 2015
15/09/15 - Sgurr nan Conbhairean,Carn Ghluasaid, Sail Chaorainn, A Chraileag, Mullach Fraoch-choire - (me)
I'd had a good drive up the day before, leaving at midday and arriving in Shiel Bridge at Kintail Lodge Hotel at about 8pm. The accommodation was basic, but really good value. I hardly slept, I think because of the feeling of sleeping in my sleeping bag and also the ongoing knocks and bangs from the other occupants in hostel that seemed to continue late into the night and start early in the morning. The other residents were friendly though and offered some good views in terms of local walks.
The weather today was looking like it would be low visibility, but largely dry. I drove up to Cluanie and was on the hill by 9am. Today's venture was largely about working out what my rate of progress would be through the day, so I was taking on a walk which was one of the shorter of the week, but which I could join up with another walk if I progressed well - if I did both walks I would have reason to be pleased with myself. However, the combined walks would result in my landing back on the road about 4 miles from my car. I had my bike so that I could drop it off where I would arrive and then could ride back to the car, but looking at the weather and my own sense of energy I figured that the basic route would be more than enough - I decided to keep the bike in the back of the car.
The guidebooks all commented on the fabulous views, but I couldn't see any of them. In fact the walk was largely uneventful for the first few hours. Enjoyable, but uneventful. Navigation was aided by the OS Maps I had on my iPhone (new from work), though the route was fairly obvious. It was certainly nice to be back in Scotland, where the paths were completely uncluttered with other walkers, in fact in the first few hours I'd seen no-one.
I took in Carn Ghluasaid and continued to Sgurr nan Conbhairean and then I hid my rucsac as I would be returning by the same path and went on to Sail Chaorainn. It was now that I had my choice - head west and onto the other route, or continue whence I'd come and back to the car. After short deliberation I decided to add on the extra route - I hate these decisions when on walking holidays, because the cost of do/don't is often the balance between achieving a lot and relaxing a lot - and I want to do both things!
I knew that joining the other route was going to be a bit tricky, some descent was inevitable, but by hugging the side of the hill, this could be minimised, equally though, the terrain was potentially quite boggy and uneven. Overall it wasn't much fun and was playing havoc with my right foot as it struggled to hold a steady position and took most of the strain of walking along the side of a steep hill (resulting in quite a bit of rubbing in the boot). The good news though was that the weather was clearing a bit, particularly as I descended a bit.
Eventually a reached the col which marked me arriving on the next route. My time was still OK - i was reasonably confident of getting back to the road in time to get something to eat - but should I walk west to the Cluanie Inn and then get a lift from there to the car, or straight east back to the car for 4 miles, with the hopeful possibility of hitching a ride.....?
I'd still not seen another human, but as I scanned the adjoining mountains, I could see figures in the distance, just silhouetted against the sky. However, they were following a strange route and I realised that they were probably deer. It took several minutes of close observation to confirm that they were definitely deer, largely based on their somewhat erratic movements and grouping in comparison more goal focussed walkers.
As I ascended the next hill I again went into the clouds, but the glimpses of brightness into the valleys added a wonderful light to the surroundings and gave me confidence that warmth and light awaited my descent. The first hill was fairly (A Chraileag) easy, but for the second (Mullach Fraoch-choire), the path became far more exposed and there were amply scrambling opportunities, particularly one along a set of pinnacles - it looked very tempting (because it looked possible, but very scary), but I chickened out on the basis of having my rucsac on my back (I could have left it earlier as I was on the final leg which I'd need to return on, but I'd felt a bit nervous when I left it last time), and also because I was getting pretty tired. The weather and visibility were also getting worse and to be honest I was pleased when I arrived at the summit and could start to make my return.
The initial descent was pathless and slow, but after a while I made enough descent to break through the clouds and the rest of the path to the car was now long, but reasonably flat and easy going. The views now opened up completely. I saw another herd of deer to my left and then shortly after another to my right - both herds starting at me as much as I at them.
My legs were doing OK, so I used my sticks to get some pace on, and managed to get a technique going where I was really propelled along by my arms. I t was tiring, but effective and I ate up the rest of the path and made it back to the road by about 5pm.
I decided to just get on with the walk back to the car rather than potentially adding another 2 miles onto it by going to the Cluanie Inn. I knew that a lot of people had success with hitch hiking on this road, but I wasn't sure about it and more than anything felt quite silly and presumptuous doing it! The first car passed without me raising my thumb, but as the second one approached I optimistically put my thumb out. To my surprise and joy, it stopped for me and I threw my stuff in the back and enjoyed the 10 minute ride back to my car with a very pleasant, local young chap who working in a fish farm. He obviously enjoyed his work and it was a pleasure to meet him. I just hope I didn't stink his car out with my sweat and bog smell.
I then drove to the Cluanie Inn for something to eat. I was surprised to see a deet in the car park and I decided to see just how close I could get to it before it ran off. I was probably at about 15ft and moving very cautiously as it was about as tall as me and I din't know which way it would bolt when it ran. I took another step and it stared at me and then suddenly lurched as if to charge at me! I quickly bolted in the other direction!
I had venison stew in the pub by way of revenge.
I took a drive to Glenelg after to where the Skye Ferry still carries it's 6 cars over to Skye. I was surprised at just how close Skye was at this point - no more than about 400m.
Had a few whiskies in the pub, a chat with some people in the hostel, and then to bed - feeling very chuffed with myself and now expecting a bonanza week with some more epic walks which I would continue to excel at.....
Munro - Sgurr nan Conbhairean,Carn Ghluasaid, Sail Chaorainn, A Chraileag, Mullach Fraoch-choire
GPX - https://www.dropbox.com/s/fyfznzqwq7jmnij/15-09-15%20-%20Sgurr%20nan%20Conbhairean%2CCarn%20Ghluasaid%2C%20Sail%20Chaorainn%2C%20A%20Chraileag%2C%20Mullach%20Fraoch-choire%20-%20%28me%29.gpx?dl=0
The weather today was looking like it would be low visibility, but largely dry. I drove up to Cluanie and was on the hill by 9am. Today's venture was largely about working out what my rate of progress would be through the day, so I was taking on a walk which was one of the shorter of the week, but which I could join up with another walk if I progressed well - if I did both walks I would have reason to be pleased with myself. However, the combined walks would result in my landing back on the road about 4 miles from my car. I had my bike so that I could drop it off where I would arrive and then could ride back to the car, but looking at the weather and my own sense of energy I figured that the basic route would be more than enough - I decided to keep the bike in the back of the car.
The guidebooks all commented on the fabulous views, but I couldn't see any of them. In fact the walk was largely uneventful for the first few hours. Enjoyable, but uneventful. Navigation was aided by the OS Maps I had on my iPhone (new from work), though the route was fairly obvious. It was certainly nice to be back in Scotland, where the paths were completely uncluttered with other walkers, in fact in the first few hours I'd seen no-one.
I took in Carn Ghluasaid and continued to Sgurr nan Conbhairean and then I hid my rucsac as I would be returning by the same path and went on to Sail Chaorainn. It was now that I had my choice - head west and onto the other route, or continue whence I'd come and back to the car. After short deliberation I decided to add on the extra route - I hate these decisions when on walking holidays, because the cost of do/don't is often the balance between achieving a lot and relaxing a lot - and I want to do both things!
I knew that joining the other route was going to be a bit tricky, some descent was inevitable, but by hugging the side of the hill, this could be minimised, equally though, the terrain was potentially quite boggy and uneven. Overall it wasn't much fun and was playing havoc with my right foot as it struggled to hold a steady position and took most of the strain of walking along the side of a steep hill (resulting in quite a bit of rubbing in the boot). The good news though was that the weather was clearing a bit, particularly as I descended a bit.
Eventually a reached the col which marked me arriving on the next route. My time was still OK - i was reasonably confident of getting back to the road in time to get something to eat - but should I walk west to the Cluanie Inn and then get a lift from there to the car, or straight east back to the car for 4 miles, with the hopeful possibility of hitching a ride.....?
I'd still not seen another human, but as I scanned the adjoining mountains, I could see figures in the distance, just silhouetted against the sky. However, they were following a strange route and I realised that they were probably deer. It took several minutes of close observation to confirm that they were definitely deer, largely based on their somewhat erratic movements and grouping in comparison more goal focussed walkers.
As I ascended the next hill I again went into the clouds, but the glimpses of brightness into the valleys added a wonderful light to the surroundings and gave me confidence that warmth and light awaited my descent. The first hill was fairly (A Chraileag) easy, but for the second (Mullach Fraoch-choire), the path became far more exposed and there were amply scrambling opportunities, particularly one along a set of pinnacles - it looked very tempting (because it looked possible, but very scary), but I chickened out on the basis of having my rucsac on my back (I could have left it earlier as I was on the final leg which I'd need to return on, but I'd felt a bit nervous when I left it last time), and also because I was getting pretty tired. The weather and visibility were also getting worse and to be honest I was pleased when I arrived at the summit and could start to make my return.
The initial descent was pathless and slow, but after a while I made enough descent to break through the clouds and the rest of the path to the car was now long, but reasonably flat and easy going. The views now opened up completely. I saw another herd of deer to my left and then shortly after another to my right - both herds starting at me as much as I at them.
My legs were doing OK, so I used my sticks to get some pace on, and managed to get a technique going where I was really propelled along by my arms. I t was tiring, but effective and I ate up the rest of the path and made it back to the road by about 5pm.
I decided to just get on with the walk back to the car rather than potentially adding another 2 miles onto it by going to the Cluanie Inn. I knew that a lot of people had success with hitch hiking on this road, but I wasn't sure about it and more than anything felt quite silly and presumptuous doing it! The first car passed without me raising my thumb, but as the second one approached I optimistically put my thumb out. To my surprise and joy, it stopped for me and I threw my stuff in the back and enjoyed the 10 minute ride back to my car with a very pleasant, local young chap who working in a fish farm. He obviously enjoyed his work and it was a pleasure to meet him. I just hope I didn't stink his car out with my sweat and bog smell.
I then drove to the Cluanie Inn for something to eat. I was surprised to see a deet in the car park and I decided to see just how close I could get to it before it ran off. I was probably at about 15ft and moving very cautiously as it was about as tall as me and I din't know which way it would bolt when it ran. I took another step and it stared at me and then suddenly lurched as if to charge at me! I quickly bolted in the other direction!
I had venison stew in the pub by way of revenge.
I took a drive to Glenelg after to where the Skye Ferry still carries it's 6 cars over to Skye. I was surprised at just how close Skye was at this point - no more than about 400m.
Had a few whiskies in the pub, a chat with some people in the hostel, and then to bed - feeling very chuffed with myself and now expecting a bonanza week with some more epic walks which I would continue to excel at.....
Munro - Sgurr nan Conbhairean,Carn Ghluasaid, Sail Chaorainn, A Chraileag, Mullach Fraoch-choire
GPX - https://www.dropbox.com/s/fyfznzqwq7jmnij/15-09-15%20-%20Sgurr%20nan%20Conbhairean%2CCarn%20Ghluasaid%2C%20Sail%20Chaorainn%2C%20A%20Chraileag%2C%20Mullach%20Fraoch-choire%20-%20%28me%29.gpx?dl=0
Subscribe to:
Posts (Atom)