Today was our first day with our guide (Andy from West Coast Mountain Guides). I started the day with a breakfast which I made in the hostel and ate while prepping lunch. Steve went to Morrisons to get a cooked breakfast and buy sandwiches...
Unfortunately, Steve had a prang in his car in Morrisons car park so he was a bit phased as we met up with Andy and started our walk up the path to Buachaille Etive Beag (4th time for me on this path). The weather was stunning - clear blue skies and a blazing sun. Luckily, Andy had some sun glasses he could lend me.
I was particularly pleased that we were doing this route as it enabled me to "bag" Stob coire Sgreamhach, which I'd missed (due to perceived lack of time), when I did Bidean nam Bian.
We got reasonably high before donning crampons, but before long we were roped up and on our way. I offered some self mocking to Andy as we geared up that I'd managed to lose a crampon last year, he confirmed that he'd not heard of that before and Steve took the opportunity to join in the tease.
Steve and I were attached to the same rope, me about 10 feet further up than Steve, which required more consideration than when it had just been me last year.
Steve, made a comment early on re "this is the life". I'd been a little worried as to how he would cope with some of the exposure, because at the climbing wall he'd open about struggling with the height of some of the walls, so I was pleased that he was enjoying it, but I was also aware that we also hadn't really started yet....
The going was very different to last year - there was probably more exposure, but the route felt less technical, because the snow was more even and settled, so the foot holds were more certain. That's not to say that my nerves weren't fraying though... As were Steve's - he made a comment about not looking down, and then shortly after I could hear his breathing quicken.
We then came to a top which involved significant exposure on both side and a very thin ridge walk to progress. It became clear that Steve was having a panic attack. I was pretty pleased that I could walk across the thin ridge section with reasonable confidence, but Steve wanted to crawl across - which would have been suicidal. I still don't know how he actually got across, because I couldn't look - I left it to Andy to deal with so that I could concentrate on managing my own nerves. One thing was clear though - it was not an option for Steve to stay still or retreat, he had to deal with his nerves and carry on.
To make matters worse, Andy also spotted at this time that Steve had lost a crampon..... Not good.
We had another very exposed section, which Steve had to do an "old school" donkey ride traverse over - i.e. sticking one leg either side and shifting along on his arse. But he got there. He also did a grand job of completing the rest of the climb with only one crampon - I did not envy him that experience...!
The views on the way up had been truly stunning,but it was only when we got to the very top that the views really opened up. The view down Glen Etive was beautiful, but it was the 360 degree view of Scotlands mountains which really amazed - the air was so clear that the only thing limiting our view was the curvature of the earth. Luckily Andy was able to expertly point out what all the mountains were - over to the Cairngorms, Knoydart, Ben Lawers, Ben More, but most impressively, in a perfect placed gap in the mountains, a distant view of the Cuillin Ridge.
Some impress cornices also garnered the summit - made all the more interesting by the single hare track which ran up to the very edge and then back again - what had that hare been looking at?
We started our descent down the third Sister of Glencoe. Steve's nerves were returning, but I found this bit quite unnerving. I wasn't on a rope, and the steps were down into deep snow. A slip probably would just have meant a stumble into snow, but might also have resulted in rolling over the edge. One crampon Steve was kept on a leash by Andy.
After a bit of descent Andy determined a speedy and relatively safe descent down the side of the mountain. This involved what turned out to be a very enjoyably romp down the side, followed by a seated glissade (bum slide). Type 1 fun!
Steve was pretty quiet for the remainder of the walk. He was reasonably settled that he wasn't going to come out with us the following day, but I suggested that we do a Grade 1 route instead, with less ridge type exposure and Andy came up with a few options for this.
The final part of the descent was enriched with continue good views and treats such as looking at hare tracks and the fox tracks pursuing them.
We stopped at Cotswolds for Steve to get some (G14 !!!) crampons. And then stopped at Morrisons for wine, pasta and steaks.
Munro - Stob coire Sgreamhach
GPX File