I'd feel comfortable walking in winter conditions, but still need to improve navigation skills
Need to get a better grip on (by teaching myself):
Basics of navigation - need to carry a compass and actually use it, including measuring distance
My own pace - how many steps in 100m etc
Weather systems
Avalanche predictions
Basically all the stuff that I've read previously but never really taken much notice of or tried to use in action
The rope work was great fun, but I don't know enough to actually put this into practice. I think some more summer outdoor climbing is the way to go here. And then some lead climbing. I've then got all the pieces in place to do some outdoor climbing myself. I need to get a partner though....
Things to plan for:
March - Day in Lakes
March - Day in Lakes/Wales with Steve
April - Tryfan scramble with Steve/Andy
May - Walk-Camp-Walk with boys
Skye - May
June - Scottish wild camp weekend
July - Scrambling
August - Scrambling
Sept - Scottish hostel
Jan/Feb/Mar - Scottish Winter Mountaineering weekend
Thursday, 26 February 2015
26/02/15 - Stob Ban - (me and Matt)
Last day. Went somewhere a bit different though - Glen Nevis. Nice to do something Nevissy (Matt still didn't feel comfortable doing Nevis due to bad weather - there had been a rescue there last night).
Trek at start was really hard this time. My body felt like it was looking forward to the end of the course. I had to ask for a snack rest at one point - which was the first time during the whole week. We then continued with the "Alpine Plod".
Matt said not to use the Ice Axe on the climb today, which I thought was great at first, but still turned out to be unnerving because the rock was icy and the gloves far from delicate.
My energy levels were better after the climb, but my feel still felt loose and clumsy.
Plenty to see though - the cornices had fallen away dramatically in a number of places - you could see the remains of the avalanche below.
The walk back down Glen Nevis was lovely, not the usual slog return of most walks. The trees were stripped to the their skeletons and looked almost burnt out against the white background of the snow.
Met Matt for a last beer in Fort William. I asked him about climbs that he's done and it turned out the list was pretty impressive, including El Capitan, The Nose and a bunch of other very serious climbs. Really decent guy, hope to climb with him again at some point.
http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/stob-ban/
Munro - Stob Ban
Trek at start was really hard this time. My body felt like it was looking forward to the end of the course. I had to ask for a snack rest at one point - which was the first time during the whole week. We then continued with the "Alpine Plod".
Matt said not to use the Ice Axe on the climb today, which I thought was great at first, but still turned out to be unnerving because the rock was icy and the gloves far from delicate.
My energy levels were better after the climb, but my feel still felt loose and clumsy.
Plenty to see though - the cornices had fallen away dramatically in a number of places - you could see the remains of the avalanche below.
The walk back down Glen Nevis was lovely, not the usual slog return of most walks. The trees were stripped to the their skeletons and looked almost burnt out against the white background of the snow.
Met Matt for a last beer in Fort William. I asked him about climbs that he's done and it turned out the list was pretty impressive, including El Capitan, The Nose and a bunch of other very serious climbs. Really decent guy, hope to climb with him again at some point.
http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/stob-ban/
Munro - Stob Ban
Wednesday, 25 February 2015
25/02/15 - School House Arete and The Curtain, Sgorr Dhearg - (me and Matt)
An early start today so that we could make the most of the weather. Also involved taking 2 cars so that we could cut out the slog back round to the car at the end.
Walking was pretty tough at the beginning, but my tiredness was displaced by fear as we roped up and started the pitches up the tricky sections. This felt far more exposed than yesterday and considerably more dangerous. I lost my balance at one point and would have fallen off if it wasn't for the rope. Mind you, I guess that's what it's there for....
Continued to be fairly exposed, but exhilarating all the way up to the summit.
Went to Cotswold to get a patch for my trousers and then got the ferry across to The Inn at Ardgour. Fun, though food wasn't brilliant.
http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/school-house-arete/
Munro - Sgorr Dhearg
Walking was pretty tough at the beginning, but my tiredness was displaced by fear as we roped up and started the pitches up the tricky sections. This felt far more exposed than yesterday and considerably more dangerous. I lost my balance at one point and would have fallen off if it wasn't for the rope. Mind you, I guess that's what it's there for....
Continued to be fairly exposed, but exhilarating all the way up to the summit.
Went to Cotswold to get a patch for my trousers and then got the ferry across to The Inn at Ardgour. Fun, though food wasn't brilliant.
http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/school-house-arete/
Munro - Sgorr Dhearg
Tuesday, 24 February 2015
24/02/15 - Pink rib, Beinn a Chrulaiste - (me and Matt)
The weather was maybe a little better today, so we headed to do a Grade 1 Scramble up the Pink Rib and then if possible to the summit of Beinn a Chrulaiste (a Corbett).
The views to Buachaille Etive Mor were stunning - I was a little dissapointed not to be going up there but I knew that it would not be possible due to the weather. The walk to the rib was tough due to the deep snow. Once at the bottom we roped up and started off. This instantly felt more technical and demanding than yesterday - in a good and bad way! There were 3 pithces in all, the first being the most demanding and genuinely scary. Type 2 fun....!
We managed to get to the summit in howling wind. The views, when they appeared between periods of white-out were simple stunning, far more dramatic than what you'd get with a constant clear blue sky. The coffee and snickers which were eaten as I tucked behind the shelter at the summit were deeply satisfying to such an extent that it made me laugh. Felt like being in my own little world as the wind was so strong that it was impossible to try and talk to Matt.
The walk back down involved ploughing through waist deep snow. We passed another guide the Matt knew on route, they'd done the Pink Rib too, but had taken a different route to us. When we got to the bottom Matt suggested that we went back up via that route.... I said, "yes" eventually, but only after saying vague get outs like "I really don't mind" and "why not". However, I was pleased I did. We concluded that the first rib was more of a Grade II, the second being Grade I.
Total ascent was higher than a Munro, including 300m climbed.
Another beer in Clachaig, and then home for another early night.
WCMG Blog - http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/beinn-a-chrulaiste/
The views to Buachaille Etive Mor were stunning - I was a little dissapointed not to be going up there but I knew that it would not be possible due to the weather. The walk to the rib was tough due to the deep snow. Once at the bottom we roped up and started off. This instantly felt more technical and demanding than yesterday - in a good and bad way! There were 3 pithces in all, the first being the most demanding and genuinely scary. Type 2 fun....!
We managed to get to the summit in howling wind. The views, when they appeared between periods of white-out were simple stunning, far more dramatic than what you'd get with a constant clear blue sky. The coffee and snickers which were eaten as I tucked behind the shelter at the summit were deeply satisfying to such an extent that it made me laugh. Felt like being in my own little world as the wind was so strong that it was impossible to try and talk to Matt.
The walk back down involved ploughing through waist deep snow. We passed another guide the Matt knew on route, they'd done the Pink Rib too, but had taken a different route to us. When we got to the bottom Matt suggested that we went back up via that route.... I said, "yes" eventually, but only after saying vague get outs like "I really don't mind" and "why not". However, I was pleased I did. We concluded that the first rib was more of a Grade II, the second being Grade I.
Total ascent was higher than a Munro, including 300m climbed.
Another beer in Clachaig, and then home for another early night.
WCMG Blog - http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/beinn-a-chrulaiste/
Monday, 23 February 2015
23/02/15 - Zig Zags, Gearr Aonach - (me and Matt)
So this was my first morning with Matt Stygall from West Coast Mountain guides. The weather was still pretty horrific so we drove into Glen Coe to assess options. Matt quickly settled on doing the Zig Zags up the nose of Gearr Aonach in Glen Coe.
The snow was deep and squelchy as we made our way up. The spot was clearly the right choice as there were a number of other guides and their groups there. We roped up fairly sharpish and proceeded to scramble up the Zig Zags. Great fun and not too exposed or scary (but I'm probably just saying that because I'm now considering it as relative to the climbs we did since...). We lunched in style on a make shift ledge under Matt's emergency shelter (used 2 nights earlier in a genuine rescue). We managed to take in a "summit of sorts", but didn't go up as far as the summit of Gearr Aonach.
A good day, but with the snow being so deep the scrambles felt a bit easy - it was hard to go wrong, just stomp the snow down and trample up.
Went for a beer (along with a bunch of other guides) at the brilliant Clachaig Inn (http://www.clachaig.com/). Over 300 whiskies and I didn't try one......
Blog entry from West Coast Mountain Guides - http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/snow/
The snow was deep and squelchy as we made our way up. The spot was clearly the right choice as there were a number of other guides and their groups there. We roped up fairly sharpish and proceeded to scramble up the Zig Zags. Great fun and not too exposed or scary (but I'm probably just saying that because I'm now considering it as relative to the climbs we did since...). We lunched in style on a make shift ledge under Matt's emergency shelter (used 2 nights earlier in a genuine rescue). We managed to take in a "summit of sorts", but didn't go up as far as the summit of Gearr Aonach.
A good day, but with the snow being so deep the scrambles felt a bit easy - it was hard to go wrong, just stomp the snow down and trample up.
Went for a beer (along with a bunch of other guides) at the brilliant Clachaig Inn (http://www.clachaig.com/). Over 300 whiskies and I didn't try one......
Blog entry from West Coast Mountain Guides - http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/news/snow/
Sunday, 22 February 2015
22/02/15 - Col on Buachaille Etive Beag in Glen Coe - (me and Jacob)
First day of the Winter Mountaineering course with West Coast Mountain Guides (http://www.westcoast-mountainguides.co.uk/). Got picked up by Jake Phillips at 8am. My expectations were immediately set that options were going to be limited through the week due to excessive amounts of snow (who would have thought it!). Based on prevailing wind direction and avalanche warnings we went to the col on Buachaille Etive Beag in Glen Coe. The snow was deep and getting deeper. And the wind! 60mph with gusts up to 90mph....!
Lots of good crampon technique training, ice axe arrest, scrambling and all round good fun! I'd thought yesterday that I'd been doing the most scary stuff I'd be doing it all week, I now started to think different. However, the difference was I'd be doing it safer!
I was dropped back at the hostel at about 4, so I trucked up to Fort William and got a ticket for the Best of BANF film festival. After getting something to eat I took my (very uncomfortable) seat. I soon realised that it would probably be unwise to stay until the end because my body needed a more complete rest before embarking on tomorrow's activities. I left at the break - knowing that I'd regret it if I left, and also regret it if I didn't.
Lots of good crampon technique training, ice axe arrest, scrambling and all round good fun! I'd thought yesterday that I'd been doing the most scary stuff I'd be doing it all week, I now started to think different. However, the difference was I'd be doing it safer!
I was dropped back at the hostel at about 4, so I trucked up to Fort William and got a ticket for the Best of BANF film festival. After getting something to eat I took my (very uncomfortable) seat. I soon realised that it would probably be unwise to stay until the end because my body needed a more complete rest before embarking on tomorrow's activities. I left at the break - knowing that I'd regret it if I left, and also regret it if I didn't.
Saturday, 21 February 2015
21/02/15 - Beinn Ime - (me)
So this would be the first day of my week's mountaineering holiday in Scotland. I'd driven up on Friday night and stayed at Fascadail House in Arrochar - http://www.fascadail.com/ . I intended on climbing Ben Lomond the following day as a warm-up for the week, but realised on arrival that it was the opposite side of Loch Lomond and so was about an hour's drive.... I decided to take on Beinn Ime instead. I'd failed to compete Beinn Ime when attempted as the second half of a walk with Andy and Steve in September (the first half being Beinn Narnain). Weather wise this was due to be the best day of the holiday so I thought I could add on Ben Vane without too much trouble.
I parked up and set off the long forest track to the col between Beinn Narnain and Beinn Ime. Being all tooled up with crampons and ice axe, I thought I'd take a more direct scramble up the side of Beinn Ime, so off I set. It was a pleasurable challenge at first, but soon got a bit more hairy - I started to find news ways of using my ice axe which I wasn't sure were wise, but they were effective and necessary as I found myself somewhere approaching stuck. Once or twice I realised I was stood on top of a peak of snow which had piled up against sheer rock and quickly had to find a retreat.
But before too long I clawed my way to the brow of the hill and sat down to eat and consider my fate. The sun was shining and the views were fantastic, I set off again but after a few steps I realised that the yellow cord attaching my left crampon to my boot was missing, I then realised that my crampon was missing! Thinking that it had come off while I was sitting I turned back to where I ate, but it wasn't there. The increasing wind and snow had done a good job of covering my tracks and even if I had of wanted to retrace my tracks back down the scramble (no thanks!), I wouldn't have been able to see them.
I set off in pretty much a whiteout. Determined to complete Beinn Ime, but now accepting that Beinn Vane would elude me. The mildly undulating plateau was unproblematic except for the lack of any real visibility. The GPS did a grand job of showing me the way - I would literally have been lost without it. I made sure to stay away from the cliff edge in case of cornices. It was now a while since I'd eaten, but I wanted to continue to the summit even though I was starting to tire. I reflected on how I'd heard that whiteout's could make people paranoid - and then I started to feel paranoid. I thought I saw a man in the distance and then a hat on the floor, I laughed "I'm seeing things and my vision is going blurry....", I quickly decided I needed to eat!
Eventually after scrambling to the wrong summit, I found the actual summit and started to descend - this time taking the easier route to the col. The snow was extremely deep in places, especially as I walked over the gully of a stream (!). But eventually I made my way back to the car, 1 crampon lighter than when I set off.
I piled my stuff into the car and set off merrily to Glen Coe, I was intending on going to the climbing talk at the Fort William Festival. After a while I decided that I wanted to listen to some of the music that I'd put on the sd card in my wallet. I then started to wonder where my wallet was... I stopped the car to look for it, but after routing around for quite some time concluded that despite my memory of taking it out of my pocket, I probably hadn't. I felt sick. What would I do for money. I drove glumly to the hostel in Inchree (http://www.inchree.co.uk/). I threw myself at the mercy of the woman who checked me into my room, and fortunately she was incredibly helpful and manged to help me sort my money worries. I was far too late and not really in the mood to go to the festival, so took a trip to get food from Morrisons in Fort William, then beer and dinner in the pub, then bed.
Munro - Beinn Ime
GPX File
I parked up and set off the long forest track to the col between Beinn Narnain and Beinn Ime. Being all tooled up with crampons and ice axe, I thought I'd take a more direct scramble up the side of Beinn Ime, so off I set. It was a pleasurable challenge at first, but soon got a bit more hairy - I started to find news ways of using my ice axe which I wasn't sure were wise, but they were effective and necessary as I found myself somewhere approaching stuck. Once or twice I realised I was stood on top of a peak of snow which had piled up against sheer rock and quickly had to find a retreat.
But before too long I clawed my way to the brow of the hill and sat down to eat and consider my fate. The sun was shining and the views were fantastic, I set off again but after a few steps I realised that the yellow cord attaching my left crampon to my boot was missing, I then realised that my crampon was missing! Thinking that it had come off while I was sitting I turned back to where I ate, but it wasn't there. The increasing wind and snow had done a good job of covering my tracks and even if I had of wanted to retrace my tracks back down the scramble (no thanks!), I wouldn't have been able to see them.
I set off in pretty much a whiteout. Determined to complete Beinn Ime, but now accepting that Beinn Vane would elude me. The mildly undulating plateau was unproblematic except for the lack of any real visibility. The GPS did a grand job of showing me the way - I would literally have been lost without it. I made sure to stay away from the cliff edge in case of cornices. It was now a while since I'd eaten, but I wanted to continue to the summit even though I was starting to tire. I reflected on how I'd heard that whiteout's could make people paranoid - and then I started to feel paranoid. I thought I saw a man in the distance and then a hat on the floor, I laughed "I'm seeing things and my vision is going blurry....", I quickly decided I needed to eat!
Eventually after scrambling to the wrong summit, I found the actual summit and started to descend - this time taking the easier route to the col. The snow was extremely deep in places, especially as I walked over the gully of a stream (!). But eventually I made my way back to the car, 1 crampon lighter than when I set off.
I piled my stuff into the car and set off merrily to Glen Coe, I was intending on going to the climbing talk at the Fort William Festival. After a while I decided that I wanted to listen to some of the music that I'd put on the sd card in my wallet. I then started to wonder where my wallet was... I stopped the car to look for it, but after routing around for quite some time concluded that despite my memory of taking it out of my pocket, I probably hadn't. I felt sick. What would I do for money. I drove glumly to the hostel in Inchree (http://www.inchree.co.uk/). I threw myself at the mercy of the woman who checked me into my room, and fortunately she was incredibly helpful and manged to help me sort my money worries. I was far too late and not really in the mood to go to the festival, so took a trip to get food from Morrisons in Fort William, then beer and dinner in the pub, then bed.
Munro - Beinn Ime
GPX File
Friday, 13 February 2015
First post
So this blog will be mainly to capture my walking and activity exploits, but maybe some of my other mundane antics too....
Monday, 2 February 2015
02/02/15 - Coniston Round - (me and Steve)
Met Steve in Coniston as he was driving over from Northumberland. This would be my first venture out with (newly aquired), Ice Axe and Crampons. There was any snow in the valleys but was some on the peaks (less so than on the peaks a bit further from the coast, but nevermind). We parked up another pretty steep hill (I hoped it wouldn't snow today as I could end up having to leave the car...).
We set off on what was initially back up the route that Luca I returned from on our weekend wild camp. It wasn't too long before the crampons had to make an appearance, they were fiddly to put on at first but certainly did the trick. That said, we felt pretty silly when passed by 2 descending walkers without axe or crampon.
It's nice how the snow means that you end up being less constrained by path and can often take a more direct route without overly struggling with uneven ground.
The top was gained reasonably quickly and as we walked the ridge we took the crampons off - which made us quite a bit quicker.
The weather was bright, but bitterly cold in the face as we walked into the wind.
The crampons made further appearances as we crossed more tricky terrain - there were a number of points where things would have been very difficult without them.
We nearly went wrong as we inadvertently took in an extra peak (Great Carrs), but corrected before actually setting off.
The crampons were getting pretty easy to apply and take off now.
The descent was easy and picturesque as it we circled the reservoir. Boulder Valley would have offered opportunity for bouldering, but we were pretty tired by now.
The weather had been kind again and the road of return was nice and dry.
A beer, and then home.
GPX File
We set off on what was initially back up the route that Luca I returned from on our weekend wild camp. It wasn't too long before the crampons had to make an appearance, they were fiddly to put on at first but certainly did the trick. That said, we felt pretty silly when passed by 2 descending walkers without axe or crampon.
It's nice how the snow means that you end up being less constrained by path and can often take a more direct route without overly struggling with uneven ground.
The top was gained reasonably quickly and as we walked the ridge we took the crampons off - which made us quite a bit quicker.
The weather was bright, but bitterly cold in the face as we walked into the wind.
The crampons made further appearances as we crossed more tricky terrain - there were a number of points where things would have been very difficult without them.
We nearly went wrong as we inadvertently took in an extra peak (Great Carrs), but corrected before actually setting off.
The crampons were getting pretty easy to apply and take off now.
The descent was easy and picturesque as it we circled the reservoir. Boulder Valley would have offered opportunity for bouldering, but we were pretty tired by now.
The weather had been kind again and the road of return was nice and dry.
A beer, and then home.
GPX File
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